Bestop TJ Flare Upgrade

<Click on the photo thumbnails to enlarge!>

  Afterside.JPG (304534 bytes)

With the upgrades in tires and wheels the stock flares were no longer wide enough to keep the sides of the Jeep clean when driven in the rain or mud. The stock flares are 3 1/2 inches wide, and were beginning to show some serious wear from constant contact with the tires at full compression.

After hearing horror stories about the fit and finish of the flares from Steel Horse, Warn, and Xenon I had originally wanted 6" flares from TeraFlex. These had a good reputation, and were made in Germany for Teraflex - unfortunately for some reason the 6" versions went out of production last year and there was no sign of any new production. The 7" TeraFlares were too wide for my tastes.

Bestop came out with their offering this spring, promising a sturdy construction that was paintable, and innovative design features like a internal "perimeter ridge" for additional support, and a "mud bulge" on the front flares designed to catch roadspray when the tires are turned. Plus, the rear flares have a slightly rounded CJ-esque apex. Bestop has always had very good products, and their customer support is excellent. I guessed that it would be next to impossible to order just one replacement flare from Steel Horse, Warn, Xenon, or Tera if one was crushed during rockcrawling; and I was betting that Bestop customer support would do their usual excellent job and send me just one if I wanted it.

Due to demand, it took almost 4 months before the flares were delivered. Compared to stock, these were quite a bit sturdier and heavier, and came finished in a mild textured finish. To be different, I had the flares painted to match the Stone White color code of the Jeep with flexible primer and paint additives. Once painted I could see minor molding imperfections in the edges and the texturing. I later read the instructions and discovered that I was supposed to lightly sand the flares before painting (but then, who ever reads the instructions first?). It wasn't that noticable anyway. The flares come with complete instructions as well as new hardware.

newflares.JPG (415756 bytes)

Here's a side by side comparison of the Bestop and stock flares

Frontflarescomparo.JPG (405548 bytes)   Rearflarescomparo.JPG (336707 bytes)

On to the installation:

TOOLS:     10 mm socket    -       to remove the turn signal lamp         8 mm socket     -       to remove the original hardware
                5/16 socket      -      to install the new hardware             5/16 open wrench -  to install the flare extensions
                3/8" drill bit     -       to punch the front flares                 Vice grip          -       to pry down the rear fender liner

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (not listed in the Bestop instructions, but *will* save you skin and exasperation

                1/4" drive rachet with short handle                                 1/4" drive flex shaft extension
                1/4" drive universal joint                                                1/4" drive screwdriver handle (not pictured)

Tools.JPG (289869 bytes)

STEP 1:

Remove the front turn signal lamp from the flare. A single 10mm nut holds the lamp in place from the inside of the flare. Be careful when handling the nut because it is made out of pressed sheet metal. Turn the light socket 1/4 turn counterclockwise to remove the lamp from the housing.

marker.JPG (410750 bytes)

STEP 2:

Remove the old front flares using the 8 mm socket and whatever extensions and drives necessary. Due to the tight confines I found it easier to first break the screws loose, then hold the screw head in place as you turn the tap plate from the inner surface. SAVE the three threaded machine screws that secure the rear of the front flare. The remaining sharp-pointed screws and tap plates can be discarded. The outside edges of the flares can be gently pulled out and up for better access to the screw heads. For the rear flares save the three threaded maching screws that secure the front and rear lower corners of the flare, and discard the remaining sharp-pointed screws and tap plates. You must gently pry out the lateral lip of the plastic inner fender liner to gain access to the tap plates. Be sure the plastic has a chance to warm in the sun (not a hard thing here in Florida), and use a Vice Grip to hold the liner down and keeping your hands from being pinched. I was really surprised with all the dried mud that was behind the fender liner! Take the time to clean the exposed painted surfaces before installing the new flares. (I kinda liked the flare-less old flat fender look....radical!)

fenderliner.JPG (301406 bytes)

baredirty.JPG (385241 bytes)  bareclean.JPG (299733 bytes)

 

STEP 3:

It looks like Bestop designed the TJ flares to be fitted onto either a CJ or YJ as well, because it gave specific instructions on which of the molded holes needed to be drilled out.  For a TJ, all the holes were drilled out with a 3/8" drill bit. The rear flares came with all the holes already drilled. Looking at the underside of eachflare, the supportive perimeter rib can be seen.

punchholes.JPG (347146 bytes)  Perimeter ridge.JPG (344354 bytes)

The kit supplies new screws, washers, and tap plates. Install the front flares first, using the original threaded maching screws to hold the rear edge in place as you work from the front. Lightly tighten the screws until all are installed. Reinstall the turn signal lamp. The flare extension was a little tricky to install because I didn't want to have to remove my side rock bars. The stubby open wrench helps here. For the rear flares, use the original threaded screws to secure the front and rear lower corners before inserting the remainder of the screws.

And there you have it!

Here's some comparison closeups of the stock and Bestop flares when mounted, as well as pictures from the front with only one side installed.

front1.JPG (271136 bytes)   stockfront1.JPG (288037 bytes)

 rear1.JPG (344372 bytes)    stockrear1.JPG (312997 bytes)

frontcomparo.JPG (311586 bytes)

 front2.JPG (287768 bytes)  rear2.JPG (343982 bytes)

 

Here's some shots of the "Mud Bulge"

 Mudbulge1.JPG (330190 bytes)  Mudbulge2.JPG (318347 bytes)

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Long Term Update - 12/19/00

The week before Thanksgiving saw me taking the Jeep into the Upper Tellico ORV Park in Murphy North Carolina for a weekend of rockcrawling. Tellico's usually a blast when it's dry and warm - almost like you're out West....but when it's cold and wet it's an entirely different experience! A combination of bone-chilling temperature plus constant rain made for a ride that put man and machine to the test. This was the inaugural test of the Bestop flares.

RayGuardRail.jpg (173838 bytes)

Getting the hook going up GuardRail

Many of the guys in my Club were ribbing me beforehand that those pretty white fenders will shear off in seconds on the rocks. But boy were they surprised to see how rubbery and resilient the flares were! At one point I completely flattened the driverside front flare against a tree - Ouch! With the cold temperatures we all expected the flare to be destroyed. Yet to everyone's surprise as I backed away the flare popped out instantly without a scratch....well, the flex-agent-added white paint did spider-web a little, but nothing more!

Ray_Helicopter3.jpg.JPG (324267 bytes)

Making it on Helicopter Pad

Going up Helicopter Pad, Jeeps usually sustain significant body damage on their flares and corners trying to climb the left side without rolling over. I struck the infamous  multi-colored "Corner Panel Rock" with the driverside front flare. Once again, it bounced back without damage, although I have to say that I have the distinction of probably being the first Jeep to take paint *off* the rock!!

flarefollowupangle.jpg.JPG (114400 bytes)  FlarefollowupAP.jpg.JPG (111897 bytes)

All in all, I love the flares! In fact, the new "character" that the flares gained looked so good that I probably won't bother touching up the paint!